Oh Calcutta!My Park Street

Unfortunately,I was born a few years after the heydays of the "Flower Power"revolution and the time when Park Street never slept!When I started working in ANZ Grindlays Bank i met a gentleman called Mr P N Malhotra,who then owned the Blue Fox,an iconic restaurant that gave India-Pam Crain,Eric Segal as well as Usha Uthup(she began at Trincas).His joi d'vivre was a throwback to those hedonistic days which he would dwell upon.

So too Mr Wadhwa,manager of Trincas that was the jazz and blues centre of Calcutta.I am told that a new documentary is being made about Carlton Kito,the jazz maestro who played with legends like Dizzy Gillespie.

Music was but just a single symphony of what was the heart of Calcutta.The pop up restaurants of Chinatown serving beer without license along with steaming dim sum,the Mughal food of Nizams,mixed with the authentic bengali fish curry and rice.Live music and the Samba taught by the other Kito.

I must mention that Bengal has produced more rockers and its the only place that has rock music being played in the local Bengali language.Its sad that the Waldorf has moved from its original location on park Street to a side street but that is where I had my introduction to chinese food and chilly crabs!

I wanted to write about Calcutta,instead I have written an ode to Park Street....a lot more to write about yet...

Most Exquisite Trekking in The Himalayas(Roopkund or Rupin Pass?)

This is a question that I am asked often – and one I find very difficult to answer. It is so hard to choose between the two great treks that to be safe I have always stuck to a middle path. I have pointed out the pros and cons of both Roopkund and Rupin Pass but consciously never taken a stand on either of them. I don’t think I have made many friends this way.

 

So finally, for the first time I am going to choose one of them as a better trek. My choice may come as a surprise to many and I would love to read your comments.

 

First some background on why both are great treks.

 

To me Roopkund is priceless for two reasons. I have never seen high altitude meadows as beautiful as they are at Ali and Bedni Bugyal. Yes, there are other great high altitude meadows in our country, but the way Ali and Bedni Bugyal reveal themselves, a layer at a time makes them unique. Take for example, when you pop out into Ali Bugyal just at the end of your climb from the Didina oak forest. A minute earlier you were in the darkness of the oak forest and suddenly a lushness of green opens up that puts any golf course to shame.

 

When you crest Ali Bugyal, more of the meadows reveal themselves, this time stretching in a giant arc ahead of you. White mountain peaks jut out from the green edges of the meadows. By the time you reach Bedni Bugyal and camp beside the still waters of the Bedni Kund, surrounded in the greenery, even the die hard trekker who has seen it all bucks down to what nature can show.

 

 

The second thing that makes Roopkund priceless is the adventure on snow. At 15,000 during any time of the year the Roopkund flank is almost always covered in snow. Inching your way, climbing the flank to reach Roopkund is a thrill that lingers many years after you have completed the trek. It is no surprise I have found many breaking down in tears when they have reached Roopkund, such is the sense of accomplishment.

 

The Rupin Pass trek on the other hand has three great things going for me.

 

The first is the surprises on the trek. Every day, every hour the scenery changes to reveal a new sight. I have documented a few here, but I assure you this is not a complete list.

 

The second delectable thing about the Rupin Pass trek is the Dhanderas Thatch campsite. It is probably one of the most exquisite Himalayas has to offer. Snuggled at the bottom of a perfect “U” shaped glacial valley – it lies on the bed of a lush green meadow. From your view at the bottom of the meadow, snow patched cliffs tower on all three sides. In front, the Rupin cascades down from the snowy Dhauladar range for over two thousand feet through snow bridges to form the famous Rupin water fall. I have to admit, the Saruwas Thatch, Upper water fall, Rati Phere and Ronti Gad campsites also give the Dhanderas Thatch campsite a run for its money. They are as pretty and many trekkers would debate about them as well.

 

 

The third thing that I love about the Rupin Pass trek is the pass crossing day. The alpine setting is so stunning that it takes time to absorb the vision of snow 360 degrees around you. As the trail goes around bends of the mountain side, over snow fields, over snow ridges and finally comes to rest at the bottom of the gully that leads to Rupin Pass, it is difficult not to feel overpowered by the occasion. The climb through the gully to the narrow Rupin pass and the glissading descent on the other side to the Sangla valley is moments that freeze in time.

 

So which of the two – Roopkund or Rupin Pass do I choose as the better trek?

 

Well, it is tough one, but I finally choose the Rupin Pass. For two reasons: While the Roopkund trek has its “beauty” quotient, Rupin Pass always gets me for its surprises and variety.

 

It is like this. Roopkund is like an art house movie. Everything is classy about it. It is perfect in every way – perfect oak forests, perfect meadows and perfect alpine settings. The Rupin Pass trek on the other hand is like a bollywood blockbuster with its masala. There are long stretches and there are short walks. There are dense forests and there are open tracts. There are quaint villages which are centuries old and there is modernity. There is a lot going on all the time with its sudden scenery changes. And like a blockbuster it ends in a flourish with a thrilling pass climb. While class has its place, the commoner always loves a masala trek. That’s why for me the Rupin Pass is a better trek.

 

For the first time I have voiced my opinion on two treks that I love dearly. I know my choice of Rupin Pass will not go down with the Roopkund fans. I wait for your comments.

 

The Birds of Zimbabwe

When the monsoon breaks in India and on days when nature reminds us that we are still intruders and thoughts turn to Hemingway or Joseph Conrad and the need to smell the musty smell of books on a rainy sunday afternoon I remember the countless treks in distant wild places and I wonder how much of this world will I ever be able to really experience.

The world's largest extinct volcano in Tanzania-Ngorongoro crater,a wild blissful place that holds in its bowels a diverse animal kingdom,for hours i have sat watching leopards strategise their hunts with patience and cunning,lions use their organisational skills to bring down wildebeest and the impala,zebra,kudu use giraffes as sentinels to warn of danger.

Another are the myterious Chimanimani mountains of Zimbabwe with their ancient lost cities,which some say where built by the Carthaginians or the mythical people of Altantis.The carved stone birds of Zimbabwe are all thats left,I remember the goosebumps one evening jeep ride with the Nguni guides and the compass running wild with night falling,apparently a hill of magnetite that affected the compass(we have something similar in Ladakh).

The days of Freedom are passing and our descendents might be lucky to find a few open spaces,some zoos;to them the animals will be more cartoons than anything to spend hours watching.An Age passes and with it its own forms of pleasure,pastimes,hobbies and all its ilk.

Thank my stars I aint immortal and I won't live to see humankind caged in concrete cells!To me those Birds of Zimbabwe carved in silent friezes are the epitome of all that was once wild and free...

Himalayas in Restrospect:My Hampta Pass Trek

The Hampta Pass is a grand trek for any season. And the Hampta Pass is open to trekking for more months in the year than our other treks like the Roopkund, Rupin Pass or Goecha La. There is a simple reason for this: Hampta Pass at 14,500 feet is at a lower altitude.

 

The special thing about the end May attempt on the Hampta Pass is the snow. The amount of snow that you will see on Hampta Pass is something that will make you believe that you are in the arctic. I make no bones about it – snow is a big draw for most trekkers. And the way it is laid out on the Hampta Pass, it brings on a different dimension to the whole trek.

 

It has also got to do with the terrain. Most treks are conducted over very open valleys – like the Rupin Pass or the Roopkund. The Hampta Pass on the other hand is a crossing that starts out in a narrow valley and stays that way until the very end, when we descend at Chatru. The narrowness of the valley accentuates the gathering of the snow, making a trekker believe that the setting in snow is somewhere in New Zealand or Europe.

 

In end May you will find the first patches of snow even on day 1 – lining the sides of the valley walls. On Day 2, as you climb through the Jwara meadows, snow patches start increasing – they are everywhere and almost immediately you hit the first snow bridges over the Rani Nalla.

 

That day when you camp at Balu-Ka-Gera, you are on a wide river bed with mounds of snow rising all around you. The temperature drops. Quick acclimatization climbs on the snow patches around the camp make for a perfect preparation for your next day’s adventure of the Hampta Pass crossing.

 

The next morning, just as you step out of the Balu-Ka-Gera campsite, the Rani Nalla disappears under you – under a vast snow bridge. It reappears briefly as it widens to a flat bed of clear water – in fact, your last water source – to go under snow and ice never to be seen again. It is strange to think that a good part of your trek to the Hampta pass is actually over a snow glacier on the Rani Nalla.

 

The next few hours of trek are entirely on a snow valley that stretches end to end. Climbing the next 2,500 feet over multiple snowy ridges, you reach the Hampta Pass at 14,500 feet, a narrow flat snow plateau. Mt Indersan and Deo Tibba tower over it. The monochrome snowy setting is everywhere.

 

Getting down from the pass, it is almost a vertical descent through narrow snow ledges and gullies to the open valley of Shiagoru. If the climb to the pass on the snow isn’t thrilling enough, the arctic valley of Shiagoru makes you think that the view cannot be in this world – so surreal is the setting. The entire valley is like the arctic with a total cover of snow. For the first time you pitch camp on snow.

 

The next day the descent is again on snow over mounds of moraine. The trail re-enters an even narrower valley. At times the sides of the valley are two steep to hike and you have to drop down to the snow at the valley bottom to continue your descent. The trail finally ends at Chatru, crossing glaciers and snow patches. Some of the snow patches stretch forever. Camp at Chatru right next to tall snow patches under which clear brooks bring us water for the camp.

 

In a nutshell, end May is a great time to do the Hampta Pass if you want to experience snow – and see snow in its various hues. It is special because it is accentuated by the narrow valley of the Hampta Pass. A few days later in June the grandness is lost. 

 

For those weary of worldly aches its a perfect anti-dote and some silent valleys,wildlife and introspection time! 

The Baba who Ran...

Another day another Tamasha!The greatness of democrasy is that everyone has the right to protest.I too can block the road if the water supply to my house is disrupted.

The issue was heavy although I dont agree with what was demanded on Article 377 etc.As a yogi albeit a rich yogi doing some social good is a noble thought but for someone who models himself on the old warrior saints of India to run away when chased by the police and to dress as a woman and try to sneak away was simply,gut wrenchingly pathetic.

I would have appreciated Baba Ramdev if he had taken a few bamboo cane hits along with the supporters who did so his behalf.And now the scenario of getting his blood pressure and weight monitored on an hourly basis.I would not like to use the word "coward" but its there at the back of my mind.

In history there have been a few who have sat in public without food during day and eaten their fill away from prying eyes at night!

For the sake of this country lets keep the gimmickry off such serious issues.

I Have a Dream - Martin Luther King Jr.

"One hundred years later, the life of the Negro is still sadly crippled by the manacles of segregation and the chains of discrimination. One hundred years later, the Negro lives on a lonely island of poverty in the midst of a vast ocean of material prosperity. One hundred years later, the Negro is still languishing in the corners of American society and finds himself an exile in his own land.
So we have come here today to dramatize an appalling condition. In a sense we have come to our nation's capital to cash a check. When the architects of our republic wrote the magnificent words of the Constitution and the Declaration of Independence, they were signing a promissory note to which every American was to fall heir.
This note was a promise that all men would be guaranteed the inalienable rights of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. It is obvious today that America has defaulted on this promissory note insofar as her citizens of color are concerned. Instead of honoring this sacred obligation, America has given the Negro people a bad check which has come back marked "insufficient funds." But we refuse to believe that the bank of justice is bankrupt. We refuse to believe that there are insufficient funds in the great vaults of opportunity of this nation.
So we have come to cash this check -- a check that will give us upon demand the riches of freedom and the security of justice. We have also come to this hallowed spot to remind America of the fierce urgency of now. This is no time to engage in the luxury of cooling off or to take the tranquilizing drug of gradualism. Now is the time to rise from the dark and desolate valley of segregation to the sunlit path of racial justice. Now is the time to open the doors of opportunity to all of God's children. Now is the time to lift our nation from the quicksands of racial injustice to the solid rock of brotherhood.
It would be fatal for the nation to overlook the urgency of the moment and to underestimate the determination of the Negro. This sweltering summer of the Negro's legitimate discontent will not pass until there is an invigorating autumn of freedom and equality. Nineteen sixty-three is not an end, but a beginning. Those who hope that the Negro needed to blow off steam and will now be content will have a rude awakening if the nation returns to business as usual. There will be neither rest nor tranquility in America until the Negro is granted his citizenship rights.
The whirlwinds of revolt will continue to shake the foundations of our nation until the bright day of justice emerges. But there is something that I must say to my people who stand on the warm threshold which leads into the palace of justice. In the process of gaining our rightful place we must not be guilty of wrongful deeds. Let us not seek to satisfy our thirst for freedom by drinking from the cup of bitterness and hatred.
We must forever conduct our struggle on the high plane of dignity and discipline. we must not allow our creative protest to degenerate into physical violence. Again and again we must rise to the majestic heights of meeting physical force with soul force.
The marvelous new militancy which has engulfed the Negro community must not lead us to distrust of all white people, for many of our white brothers, as evidenced by their presence here today, have come to realize that their destiny is tied up with our destiny and their freedom is inextricably bound to our freedom.
We cannot walk alone. And as we walk, we must make the pledge that we shall march ahead. We cannot turn back. There are those who are asking the devotees of civil rights, "When will you be satisfied?" we can never be satisfied as long as our bodies, heavy with the fatigue of travel, cannot gain lodging in the motels of the highways and the hotels of the cities. We cannot be satisfied as long as the Negro's basic mobility is from a smaller ghetto to a larger one. We can never be satisfied as long as a Negro in Mississippi cannot vote and a Negro in New York believes he has nothing for which to vote. No, no, we are not satisfied, and we will not be satisfied until justice rolls down like waters and righteousness like a mighty stream.
I am not unmindful that some of you have come here out of great trials and tribulations. Some of you have come fresh from narrow cells. Some of you have come from areas where your quest for freedom left you battered by the storms of persecution and staggered by the winds of police brutality. You have been the veterans of creative suffering. Continue to work with the faith that unearned suffering is redemptive.
Go back to Mississippi, go back to Alabama, go back to Georgia, go back to Louisiana, go back to the slums and ghettos of our northern cities, knowing that somehow this situation can and will be changed. Let us not wallow in the valley of despair. I say to you today, my friends, that in spite of the difficulties and frustrations of the moment, I still have a dream. It is a dream deeply rooted in the American dream.
I have a dream that one day this nation will rise up and live out the true meaning of its creed: "We hold these truths to be self-evident: that all men are created equal." I have a dream that one day on the red hills of Georgia the sons of former slaves and the sons of former slaveowners will be able to sit down together at a table of brotherhood. I have a dream that one day even the state of Mississippi, a desert state, sweltering with the heat of injustice and oppression, will be transformed into an oasis of freedom and justice. I have a dream that my four children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin but by the content of their character. I have a dream today.
I have a dream that one day the state of Alabama, whose governor's lips are presently dripping with the words of interposition and nullification, will be transformed into a situation where little black boys and black girls will be able to join hands with little white boys and white girls and walk together as sisters and brothers. I have a dream today. I have a dream that one day every valley shall be exalted, every hill and mountain shall be made low, the rough places will be made plain, and the crooked places will be made straight, and the glory of the Lord shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together. This is our hope. This is the faith with which I return to the South. With this faith we will be able to hew out of the mountain of despair a stone of hope. With this faith we will be able to transform the jangling discords of our nation into a beautiful symphony of brotherhood. With this faith we will be able to work together, to pray together, to struggle together, to go to jail together, to stand up for freedom together, knowing that we will be free one day.
This will be the day when all of God's children will be able to sing with a new meaning, "My country, 'tis of thee, sweet land of liberty, of thee I sing. Land where my fathers died, land of the pilgrim's pride, from every mountainside, let freedom ring." And if America is to be a great nation, this must become true. So let freedom ring from the prodigious hilltops of New Hampshire. Let freedom ring from the mighty mountains of New York. Let freedom ring from the heightening Alleghenies of Pennsylvania! Let freedom ring from the snowcapped Rockies of Colorado! Let freedom ring from the curvaceous peaks of California! But not only that; let freedom ring from Stone Mountain of Georgia! Let freedom ring from Lookout Mountain of Tennessee! Let freedom ring from every hill and every molehill of Mississippi. From every mountainside, let freedom ring.
When we let freedom ring, when we let it ring from every village and every hamlet, from every state and every city, we will be able to speed up that day when all of God's children, black men and white men, Jews and Gentiles, Protestants and Catholics, will be able to join hands and sing in the words of the old Negro spiritual, "Free at last! free at last! thank God Almighty, we are free at last!"

What Haji Ali Means to Me

Whenever I have felt distraught and at war with myself I have gone to this shrine of a Sufi Saint on the shores of Mumbai.The road is lined with beggars and the refuse of a thousand rotting garlands and junk that the sea leaves on its shores makes the journey quaintly Indian but on reaching the wide gates and the white alabaster shrine I felt a peace that is beyond mere words.

Is it my superstition?Maybe.When I touched the Saint's grave for the first time in obeisance almost a decade ago the strange smell of ittar(incense) did not go from my hands for almost a week despite all the washing.

Maybe I was looking to believe.Maybe I was so down that I was clutching at whatever hope i could garner.Our Temples and Shrines in India are our psychiatrists and counsellers and we know that the whole world might rebuff us but not God.So a Hindu prays at the grave of a muslim Fakir and vice versa.That truly is the crux that makes India what it is and is the secret why despite centuries of religious,racial schisms we are still a Great Country.

Religion I read somewhere will cease to be an important fulcrum for humans in the next few decades.I do think then we truly shall be a mechanised race.