The serpent eagle was shielded by
the green boughs.But I knew it was there.I had seen it fly into the dense leafy
branches of the cedar. 
Welcome to the remote village of
Kaluk in west Sikkim.Sitting in the lap of the mighty Kanchendzonga Peak,it
lies close to Gyalshing,the anciet capital of west Sikkim.Across the hill lies
the more famous town of Pelling.As the whitecapped clouds scuppered away in the
morning breeze I caught my first glimpse of the third highest Peak in the world
– Mt.Kanchedzonga.
My journey began 560 Kms from
this Shangri La or lost paradise(in Tibetan),in conditions dramatically
different.Hot,humid,sultry Kolkata.Although the summer heat was giving way to
milder conditions in the month of October,it still was bloody hot!
My quiet night journey ended at
NJP station in Siliguri with a much needed air conditioned car waiting.Karma
Sherpa,a soft spoken native of Kaluk drove the Innova the 124 Kms from NJP to
Kaluk via NH 31A with stops in Tadong and Jorethang.The higher we climbed the
more we felt as if we were shedding our urban skin,the noise and pollution of
Siliguri but a memory.Tall cedar and oak trees lined the road,unnamed bright
red orchids peeping from the front yards of small mudbrick houses.
Finally our destination.5600 ft.
Up from sea level the resort.Small yet comfortable cottages with a small
balcony and the first thing I see is a reclining chair!The stress seems to
drain out in the pristine air,sharp and one can almost feel the oxygen going
into the lungs!The gardens are laid out in terraces,I hear a cow mooing
somewhere,I see a pig pen,vegetable gardens,I see swifts flying high up between
where i stand and the mountains.
I see butterflies.The size of
small birds.Vivid blue,black,red,gold yellow.I have never seen such a variety
before.The owner has brought kiwi vines from Arunachal further to the
north-east and I see three or four kiwis growing on the trellised vines.The
“viewpoint”is a meandering path topped out over a bamboo grove where the valley
falls away precipitiously to meet the Rangit river many thousands of feet
below.The pine needles have fallen on the ground over years and built into a
layer which feels soft and strangely soothing when walking on naked feet.
The varshey rhododendron
sanctuary – it of the magnificent mutli shaped orchids of the strangest hues of
purple and pink,unimaginable in its diversity.
The singular Tchangey falls,twin
slivers of water drifting away as mist even before hitting the ground.To the Pemayansgtse
Monastery in Pelling,smelling of incense and a huge prayer wheel.Eating hot
momos at a nearby tin shack restaurant.
Rested,refreshed after a three
day break we headed back to our old life....and reality!!
