Mountains In The Mist

The serpent eagle was shielded by the green boughs.But I knew it was there.I had seen it fly into the dense leafy branches of the cedar.

Welcome to the remote village of Kaluk in west Sikkim.Sitting in the lap of the mighty Kanchendzonga Peak,it lies close to Gyalshing,the anciet capital of west Sikkim.Across the hill lies the more famous town of Pelling.As the whitecapped clouds scuppered away in the morning breeze I caught my first glimpse of the third highest Peak in the world – Mt.Kanchedzonga.

My journey began 560 Kms from this Shangri La or lost paradise(in Tibetan),in conditions dramatically different.Hot,humid,sultry Kolkata.Although the summer heat was giving way to milder conditions in the month of October,it still was bloody hot!

  

My quiet night journey ended at NJP station in Siliguri with a much needed air conditioned car waiting.Karma Sherpa,a soft spoken native of Kaluk drove the Innova the 124 Kms from NJP to Kaluk via NH 31A with stops in Tadong and Jorethang.The higher we climbed the more we felt as if we were shedding our urban skin,the noise and pollution of Siliguri but a memory.Tall cedar and oak trees lined the road,unnamed bright red orchids peeping from the front yards of small mudbrick houses.

  

 

Finally our destination.5600 ft. Up from sea level the resort.Small yet comfortable cottages with a small balcony and the first thing I see is a reclining chair!The stress seems to drain out in the pristine air,sharp and one can almost feel the oxygen going into the lungs!The gardens are laid out in terraces,I hear a cow mooing somewhere,I see a pig pen,vegetable gardens,I see swifts flying high up between where i stand and the mountains.

I see butterflies.The size of small birds.Vivid blue,black,red,gold yellow.I have never seen such a variety before.The owner has brought kiwi vines from Arunachal further to the north-east and I see three or four kiwis growing on the trellised vines.The “viewpoint”is a meandering path topped out over a bamboo grove where the valley falls away precipitiously to meet the Rangit river many thousands of feet below.The pine needles have fallen on the ground over years and built into a layer which feels soft and strangely soothing when walking on naked feet.

The varshey rhododendron sanctuary – it of the magnificent mutli shaped orchids of the strangest hues of purple and pink,unimaginable in its diversity.

The singular Tchangey falls,twin slivers of water drifting away as mist even before hitting the ground.To the Pemayansgtse Monastery in Pelling,smelling of incense and a huge prayer wheel.Eating hot momos at a nearby tin shack restaurant.

Rested,refreshed after a three day break we headed back to our old life....and reality!!