This is a question that I am asked often – and one I find very difficult to answer. It is so hard to choose between the two great treks that to be safe I have always stuck to a middle path. I have pointed out the pros and cons of both Roopkund and Rupin Pass but consciously never taken a stand on either of them. I don’t think I have made many friends this way.
So finally, for the first time I am going to choose one of them as a better trek. My choice may come as a surprise to many and I would love to read your comments.
First some background on why both are great treks.
To me Roopkund is priceless for two reasons. I have never seen high altitude meadows as beautiful as they are at Ali and Bedni Bugyal. Yes, there are other great high altitude meadows in our country, but the way Ali and Bedni Bugyal reveal themselves, a layer at a time makes them unique. Take for example, when you pop out into Ali Bugyal just at the end of your climb from the Didina oak forest. A minute earlier you were in the darkness of the oak forest and suddenly a lushness of green opens up that puts any golf course to shame.
When you crest Ali Bugyal, more of the meadows reveal themselves, this time stretching in a giant arc ahead of you. White mountain peaks jut out from the green edges of the meadows. By the time you reach Bedni Bugyal and camp beside the still waters of the Bedni Kund, surrounded in the greenery, even the die hard trekker who has seen it all bucks down to what nature can show.
The second thing that makes Roopkund priceless is the adventure on snow. At 15,000 during any time of the year the Roopkund flank is almost always covered in snow. Inching your way, climbing the flank to reach Roopkund is a thrill that lingers many years after you have completed the trek. It is no surprise I have found many breaking down in tears when they have reached Roopkund, such is the sense of accomplishment.
The Rupin Pass trek on the other hand has three great things going for me.
The first is the surprises on the trek. Every day, every hour the scenery changes to reveal a new sight. I have documented a few here, but I assure you this is not a complete list.
The second delectable thing about the Rupin Pass trek is the Dhanderas Thatch campsite. It is probably one of the most exquisite Himalayas has to offer. Snuggled at the bottom of a perfect “U” shaped glacial valley – it lies on the bed of a lush green meadow. From your view at the bottom of the meadow, snow patched cliffs tower on all three sides. In front, the Rupin cascades down from the snowy Dhauladar range for over two thousand feet through snow bridges to form the famous Rupin water fall. I have to admit, the Saruwas Thatch, Upper water fall, Rati Phere and Ronti Gad campsites also give the Dhanderas Thatch campsite a run for its money. They are as pretty and many trekkers would debate about them as well.
The third thing that I love about the Rupin Pass trek is the pass crossing day. The alpine setting is so stunning that it takes time to absorb the vision of snow 360 degrees around you. As the trail goes around bends of the mountain side, over snow fields, over snow ridges and finally comes to rest at the bottom of the gully that leads to Rupin Pass, it is difficult not to feel overpowered by the occasion. The climb through the gully to the narrow Rupin pass and the glissading descent on the other side to the Sangla valley is moments that freeze in time.
So which of the two – Roopkund or Rupin Pass do I choose as the better trek?
Well, it is tough one, but I finally choose the Rupin Pass. For two reasons: While the Roopkund trek has its “beauty” quotient, Rupin Pass always gets me for its surprises and variety.
It is like this. Roopkund is like an art house movie. Everything is classy about it. It is perfect in every way – perfect oak forests, perfect meadows and perfect alpine settings. The Rupin Pass trek on the other hand is like a bollywood blockbuster with its masala. There are long stretches and there are short walks. There are dense forests and there are open tracts. There are quaint villages which are centuries old and there is modernity. There is a lot going on all the time with its sudden scenery changes. And like a blockbuster it ends in a flourish with a thrilling pass climb. While class has its place, the commoner always loves a masala trek. That’s why for me the Rupin Pass is a better trek.
For the first time I have voiced my opinion on two treks that I love dearly. I know my choice of Rupin Pass will not go down with the Roopkund fans. I wait for your comments.
